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53 Stix

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About 53 Stix

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  • Birthday 12/21/1988

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  1. zx10r wheels

    I believe the brake disk diameters are different, FYI.
  2. 2016 zx10r clutch and brake levers

  3. Titanium Suspension Linkage Bolts - ACU regs?

    My interpretation would be that they are allowed as they are not specifically ruled out, and there doesn't appear to be an all-encompassing statement regarding construction materials other than what I posted above. Obviously bare in mind the regs of the particular class you're trying to enter, too...
  4. Titanium Suspension Linkage Bolts - ACU regs?

    Old Testament 14.20: ...and God said unto thee, the use of titanium in the construction of the frame, the front forks, the handlebars, the swinging arm spindles and the wheel spindles is forbidden. For wheel spindles, the use of light alloy is also forbidden. The use of titanium alloy nuts and bolts is allowed.
  5. Gpr damper

    Mike Edwards is the UK distributor I believe. He is a member of this forum.
  6. zx10r electronic damper

    Yamaboy, I did the same on my ZX10. In terms of finish and function the Diamond damper is an entry-level item. If (like me) that doesn't bother you then it's great value for money. My only small complaint is that the sensitivity from 0~3 clicks is very high, but from 4~end makes very little difference. Again, for me that's perfectly adequate, but may be worth considering before you purchase. Cheers! -Rob
  7. I want head

    Based on the information you have provided (i.e. none ) you may do well to start with the following... (In no particular order) John Trigger @ JT Performance Tim Radley @ Race developments Mark Hanna @ Road & Race (Verwood) Kev Stephenson @ Rev2Race Phil Seton @ Seton Tuning Bob Farnham @ BFT Mike Smith @ Mike Smith Tuning Frank Wrathall @ FW Developments Steve Smith @ HM Racing The 'best' is entirely subjective, though. There will certainly be no shortage of examples of happy customers keen to promote their products/services, and I think a few of these are on this forum... -Rob
  8. Budget GPS Tracker

    I was recently gifted a really nifty little GPS tracker that I'm thoroughly impressed with, so I thought it may be useful to raise awareness in this blog post. I'm told these things are being widely used to locate desirable vehicles and race bikes for theft, and I can understand why when the functionality is so cost effective. To me, it makes sense to tool yourself up with one of these so that, should the worse ever happen, you stand more than a snowball's chance in hell of getting your pride and joy back! This particular model can also be set up with a range of other alerts/functions such as vibration sensitivity, Geo-Fence zones and audio monitoring... all of which could come in useful, and good value IMHO for less than £100 all-in! -Rob
  9. Decal kits

    If you've not committed to anything yet, it's worth getting on the blower to Chalkie's Decals (Craig Whyte). He is based in Hinckley and does fantastic work for bespoke schemes, race reps etc for all budgets. -Rob
  10. Urgent help!

    Have you tried looking on the internet?! https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=tdr250+throttle+cable&oq=tdr250+throttle+cable&aqs=chrome..69i57j0j69i60l2j69i61.3439j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
  11. Engine Refresh

    Depends largely on the design of the engine, the intended/historic use, mileage and the preferences of the engine builder. I believe the main impact on the cost/complexity of any maintenance-derived engine build is being able to know when it's appropriate to re-use something, and when it's wiser to spend the money and replace/upgrade it. Short of some really specialist analysis or measuring equipment, and very thorough record keeping, this becomes a case of best-guessing (based on past experience or paddock hearsay) to prevent any potential failures. Nevertheless, from a durability perspective I would expect the following to be inspected, measured, and refurbished/replaced as necessary prior to any performance enhancing work: Cranktrain Crank & mains Rod Gudgeon pin Power Cylinder Piston & ring pack Cylinder bore Cylinder leakage & compression ratio Valve seats Cam Drive Cam chain, guides and tensioner Valvetrain Camshafts, journals & carriers Buckets/rockers/fingers Valves, guides and stem seals Spring rates & seated pressures Collets & retainers Transmission Clutch housing, thrust bearing, slave cylinder/actuator mechanism Input & output gear sets (dogs, teeth, running surfaces) Shift forks, selector mechanism & drum Misc. Oil & water pumps All bearings, guides and bushes All threads, bores, cavities and galleries The following would typically be replaced, IMO: Piston clips Stem seals Ring pack Spark plugs Mains & big-end bearings Valve shims (as necessary) Oil & filter Clutch plates All gaskets, o-rings and seals All single-use fasteners (rod bolts, head bolts etc) Bare in mind that several of these parts/systems require many checks to understand their suitability for re-use. Rods, for instance, may require checking for twist, concentricity, parallelism and tolerancing before they even go near a crankshaft! It's also easy to overlook the amount of specialist equipment that is required, plus the expertise to operate it effectively. Some examples of specialist procedures which a knowledgeable engine builder may require, in addition to the basic strip/rebuild, could include: Crank/rod balancing Inertia matching of reciprocating assemblies Measuring flow rates Cutting valve seats Surface/cylindrical grinding Flat-lapping or skimming Honing of bores, guides End-float measurment Spring pressure assessment In the quest for increasing power output it's common to be sold parts which are "better suited to the application". These could include: Lighter/stiffer rods to reduce inertia or improve durability "High performance" pistons (I really struggle with most of these, but that's another story...) Stiffer valve springs, to allow for the use of heavier valvetrain components and/or higher accelerations (cam profiles or engine speeds) Altered camshafts with different profiles "Enhanced" port geometry to increase flow potential (also a bone of contention for me, being the lucky owner of a ZX10 with ports big enough to park a small car in, yet that makes less power than stock!) In my experience, the vast majority of work (and the biggest potential for failure) is in the the cylinder head, at least for a high performance engine. Getting good flow characteristics, sealing performance and valve dynamics takes a lot of knowledge and experience, particularly with some of the more exotic materials/coatings. -Rob
  12. Second radiator any difference.?

    IMHO there will not be a noticeable gain in engine capability when using a second rad, unless your bike is habitually running at excessively high temperatures. The OEM's radiator should be sufficient for all but the most highly-performing engines, but there are a few mods you can make to improve efficiency for race use... - Remove the fans. They are useful for drawing air through the rad, but only at very low speeds. At anything over ~20mph they will hinder airflow and inhibit cooling. - Remove the thermostat. This is used to direct the flow of coolant (water) and meter between the radiator and the cooling jacket, depending on temperature. For race use they can be removed, but (i) you may need to provide some form of compression relief for the seal, depending on the design of the thermostat housing, (ii) the bike must be thoroughly warmed up and heat soaked prior to use. - Retain any pre- or post-rad ducting, which is important to help guide air into and away from the radiator efficiently. - Make sure your rad is in good condition, with straight fins.
  13. Reverse shift adaption on 2017 ZX10R

    Hi Inky-one, I've just returned from Brands Hatch where my adapted linkage performed faultlessly! Although I purchased a Lightech offset armature prior to the meeting, after much experimenting in the workshop on the runup to the meeting I opted to run a modified OEM armature combined with a few spacers that I machined up to achieve the clearances (it was tight!). The linkage ratio isn't ideal as, compared to the OE pivot-to-pivot length, the Diamond footpeg is much shorter, but this didn't appear to adversely affect anything when the linkage was set correctly (i.e. with the axis' perpendicular to each other). I will take a couple of pictures and measurements and post them on here for anyone else who may want to try the same mod. Regarding the bike in general... Brands was the first time back on a bike since 2011 (excluding a brief outing on a Minitwin in 2014!) so it was always going to be a baptism of fire! I found the bike to be so, so much better than my ability and fitness levels so other than that it's hard to come up with any tangible feedback to be honest, especially in the context of the other modern litre bikes (which I have not ridden). My race results weren't what I was hoping for but I'm not dwelling on them too much as I know what needs to improve - and it's not the bike! For what it's worth, I would happily recommend it to a friend. Cheers! -Rob
  14. Best aftermarket wheel bearings?

    I think this is one of those questions which is hard to answer as people's definition of 'best' basically hinges on whether or not they've ever had a failure (much like asking for opinions on engine oil or fork seals; seldom do people actually have any feedback other than whether or not they have had a problem whilst using it). Personally I would always use a branded bearing for peace of mind. OEM's don't make their own bearings anyway, so using a comparable bearing from a reputable manufacturer like FAG or NSK is likely to be cheaper anyway, depending on the quantity you need. -Rob
  15. Also.... how did you manage to reincarnate a topic from 2009?! Haha!